MT. Khan-Tengri EXPEDITION

OVERVIEW

Undoubtedly, the Jewel of the Tien-Shan is the wonderful pyramid of Khan-Tengri . Khan-Tengri peak, which is situated in the northerly and remote part of the great Asian mountains, takes the second place among the highest mounts. The local people call the white peaks 'The Mountains of Heaven'. It was a Soviet expedition which first conquered the summit of Khan-Tengri peak in 1931, via the West Ridge and West Col. Soviet teams have climbed the majority of Khan-Tengri’s faces and ridges since then.
One of the classical routes we offer is started from the south, the Western Col is reached from the Southern Inylchek glacier. Among mountaineers this route is very popular. To climb peak Khan-Tengri 3 or 4 camps will be used taking into consideration weather conditions at the time.
 
Route description:
The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.
There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.
From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the
West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.
Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.
Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.
The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.
 
Transport schedule:
"North Inylchek" and "South Inylchek" Base Camps will be active between 10th of July and 25st of August in 2024.
 
Required Experience:
Experience in mountaineering (4000 m. /5000 m. /6000 m.) is recommended and required to sign up for this expedition.
 

ITINERARY

ROAD MAP

COST INCLUDES

COST EXCLUDES

FIXED DATES

GEARS LIST

Gallery